Fiddlersgreen.net
World's Largest Collection of Paper Models!
World's Largest Collection of Paper Models!
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Tips Page
Canopies Tip Free the paper canopy from the kit, fill it w/ epoxy or such to harden, then heat a clear piece of plastic till soft, in some sort of holder, or mount the canopy on a shaft and pull the heated, softened sheet over the canopy to duplicate. The Squadron shop used to sell these sheets and probably still does. Northrop Gamma Tip Printing the Gamma on Silver Cardstock will add origionality, uniqueness, and accuracy to this beautiful plane! I've had modest success using these metallic Sharpie pens for cleaning up the white paper edges on stuff that is supposed to be silver looking. The ink seems a bit thin for really big scale / large area stuff, but it does a good job on propellers. Mine came from a Walmart - they seem to be a fairly new product. And they are cheap! Making Plastic Canopies: ... By the way, the plastic shrink packing on most computer cords, packs, and tool packs are great sources of plastic for windows and canopies. Many have curves nearly shaped as you want and a little help from a blow dryer softens to a fiinal fit. Dennis Brooks (1/20/02) As you can see, paper models can be quite complex. The techniques aren't all that difficult. Anyone can build these, it just takes time, patience, practice, and a few tools. If you mess up, just print another sheet. Here's some very basic tools and techniques: A computer Since you're looking at this page, you're halfway there. Lots of models are in Adobe Acrobat format. You may need a copy of Acrobat reader from www.acrobat.com. It's free. Printer and paper Normal "copy" paper is a bit light for most paper models unless you need something very flexible. In the US, paper is graded by weight of a ream of the basis size of the stock. Yes, it is confusing. Normal copy paper is 20 lb. stock. I use 67 lb. "cover" stock mostly. For super-strength, I use 110 lb. "card" stock. Most office supply stores sell various weights. Try a few and see what works for you. Another limiting factor is your printer. It has to be able to handle the weight of paper you use without jamming. Check your printer manual. From a technical point of view, printers with an "L" shaped paper path handle heavier stock better than those with a "C" shaped one. Which is which? If the paper stands straight up behind the printer and comes out the front, it's probably an "L". The paper goes through a right-angle bend. A "C" feeds from a tray in the front around a roller (or rollers) and back out the front. The paper travels through 180 degrees. The harder bend with heavy stock is tougher to do. Some printers have a rear feed to handle heavier stock. The paper path on these is almost straight. Another thing to consider is the ink used. The water in white glue can cause water-soluble inks to run and ruin your model. Refilling your ink cartridges yourself can save you tons of money, but I never seem to have any luck at it. Either the nozzles clog or the ink doesn't match. I use a Lexmark Z-22 printer. It handles any stock I want to use, the ink isn't affected by glue, prints at 1200 dpi, and was cheap. Something to cut paper with Scissors or a hobby knife usually. I use a pair of Fiskars Soft-Touch Micro-Tip scissors most of the time. Sometimes you need a cut that is perfectly straight or impossible with scissors. Then a hobby knife and metal ruler come in handy. Put a cutting mat under it so you don't ruin your table. I've also used a hole punch occasionally. Something to crease paper with Good sharp folds are necessary to make good-looking models. Scoring the paper along the fold line is the best thing. Use a straightedge and something pointy but not too sharp. Try empty pens or the back of a hobby knife (not the blade, you'll cut through the paper). I use a scribing tool. Glue I use good ol' Elmer's Glue-All for normal work. Gel glue for laminating pieces because it has less water and doesn't cause warping. Laminating means gluing two pieces together to make one thicker piece. Flat toothpicks work well for spreading glue. So does a paintbrush. I've been experimenting with a glue stick. I'm still worried about debonding, but it works well on large seams. Markers, colored pencils, soft-lead pencils When you cut out a piece, you want to avoid having a glaring white cut edge. It detracts from the model. Creasing can cause the paper fibers to break allowing the white to show through too. Your models will look a lot better if you touch the edges and creases up with something. Make sure you don't use washable markers for your work. Glue may cause the ink to run. I find that mostly I use markers or a soft pencil. Other handy items Dowels or plastic rods help form curves. You don't really need many sizes. I use one about 1/4 in. in diameter for small curves and a pencil or pen for forming most others. A small pair of hemostats is useful as a clamp or to help form small pieces. Put drafting tape over the jaws to keep the serrations from marking the paper. Needle-nose pliers work well too. Toothpicks not only help spread glue, but provide structure. So do wooden matchsticks. Drafting tape can help hold pieces together but won't wreck surfaces when it is removed. A correcting fluid pen can help with touch-ups. A cigar box works well to hold all your tools. return to home page |