Fiddlers Green Frequently Asked Questions
--This is the page of EVERY question and EVERY solution we've ever had--
Be sure you have the Acrobat Reader Version 5 from Adobe.com

CD ordering
Cardstock & silver paper questions
CD installation and problems
Downloading files
Opening PDF files

Accessing my models from my folder
Printing questions
Scaling images
Glue
Cut, Copy, and Paste explained
Software for Designers

EXAMPLE: We'll use a Fokker DVII as an example...keeping in mind that when you order a model, you get an
entire folder of that particular model at only the price of the large model..

FIRST.....
From our home page: http://www.fiddlersgreen.net

click onto the WWI order page :
http://www.fiddlersgreen.net/aircraft/WWI/WWI.htm

At "Fokker DVII", click on the little box..
THEN... go down to the bottom of the page and click on "ADD TO CART"
or click on "GO TO CHECKOUT" if you are done shopping

One last click gets you the credit card page and simply fill it out...

Click on "SUBMIT" and count to 30... You'll see a window pop up on the screen with a URL and all you need to do is click on that to get your model... Make as many copies as you wish...

Once the model is on your computer, you can open
and print it using Adobe Acrobat version 5.0 Make as many copies as you wish...

Paper and Cardstock

What weights of cardstock should I use and where can I get it?
Most printers these days will print cardstock up to the most used #67 and even up to the sturdy #110. With the heavier stock, you might have to 'help' it through the printer by a gentle (but firm) push. Office Dept, Staples, Wal-Mart, or Stationary shops are the best sources.

We here at Fiddlers Green use Epson ink jet printers and use #67 and #110 cardstock. Glossy paper is a disaster for standard ink jets. .. But works great with a lazer printer.

67 lb is best for the 'regular' smaller sized models. The heavier 110# is for larger models.
We've discovered if you're printing a model airplane that's basically green, beige, or yellow, it's absolutely magic to print on 'ivory' or 'cream' colored cardstock. The colors are noticeably deeper and more saturated. Blue airplane models can be printed on a very light blue cardstock OR just plain white- brown or Camo planes on a light tan is fantastic. If you can't find colored cardstock, just use the basic white cardstock and you'll do fine. Pink airplanes are in bad taste.

From John in Florida..
As a modeler I have long been involved with model railroading, model ship building and of course R/C planes and boats. However, I am new to paper.. Needless to say I have been searching, reading and experimenting. The very first thing I need to say is that the "World of Paper Modeling" is absolutely fascinating.
These are my findings.
1st: Transparency Film for ink jet printers. Can be used for windows, railings and such. 3M makes such a product. Stock number CG3460. I found mine at a Staples store. 3M web site www.mmm.com/presentations

2nd: Gloss photo paper. I tried several different brands including Kodak, Epson and others. Finally I found that Ilford had a paper that worked. For the most part, no sanding was required to make normal white glue joints. A little bit of attentions was needed when making a tubular glue joint. But very little. I used smoth gloss paper 250gsm. I purchased mine at several different locations in Orlando, Fl. Harmons Photo, Colonial Photo and Hobby, Walmart and Sam's Club. Iffords web sitewww.ilford.com.

3rd: Double sided matte photo paper. Again, I tried several brands. Finally I again settled in on Iliford. I now use 2 different weights The first being the lighter weight for small structures and such. "Smooth Multi-Use Paper", 140gsm. The other being "Smooth Heavweight Matte Paper" 200gsm. The 200gsm paper seems to have a memory of it's own. When rolling for rounded smoke stacks, gun barrels, tubes, etc it seems to hold the shape without gluing. So, very little effort is required to glue it together. Beyond that we are talking about two sided printing. Heeey. ie, you can do texture printing for interior detail work. These double sided papers I have found only in specialty stores such as Harmon and Colonial.

4th: Papers colored thru and thru. No white middle. This type of paper can be found in well stocked art supply stores that are also carrying drafting supplies. These papers will range in price from 14 cents a sheet to 85 cents a sheet, depending on size and weight. The paper is available in all basic colors.

5th: Two different sided color papers. ie, blue on one side red on the other and so on. Stores such as in 4 above.

Another good paper source that's recommended by modeln' Pal Bill Pace, is: Marco's Paper, Centerville, OH

A lot of modelers use Elmer's Glue-All (a PVA glue, i.e. a latex resin dispersed in water, commonly called white glue) tacky glue is available at craft or fabric stores and is great for small parts.

Tacky glue is basically thickened white glue. You'll find that leaving a small dab of Elmer's out for a few minutes gets me something similar. Plain ol' white glue is probably the best value. Adding a very small amount of water can help the working time.

Use a very small, flat brush to apply the glue giving you a lot better control over the amount of glue - you only need a tiny amount. Keep a glass of water handy to keep the brush clear of glue. You'll probably find that "Tacky Glue" works better, It sticks better initially and sets up faster.

Aleenes is a brand of 'tacky glue' and we at Fiddlers Green recommended it for card modeling. Get a baby food jar ( those things are a national treasure!) use the lid to spread your glue on. After my Aleenes container gets about half empty it tries my patience trying to squeeze some out. Usually I get a "poooop" of air and a splatter of glue. I put the Aleenes upside down in the baby food jar and that way the glue settles to the nozzle of the container. Needless to say one should put the cap on the Aleenes before turning it upside down.

If you can find it, UHU good and durable.

My 'puter has a slot for CDs. IT looks like the CD label has risen just enough that the disk won't eject...
Take a Steno pad and taper the thick cover widthwise slide it in OVER the disk then hit the eject with the paper clip (if it's an Imac) and out it it'll come.. The card obviously holds the label down enough to allow the CD to eject.

*Please make sure you have downloaded and installed Adobe Acrobat. You will not be able to open the files without Adobe Acrobat. To download Adobe Acrobat click this url: Adobe Acrobat Reader 6

QUESTION:  Are the models to be downloaded or mailed? If down loaded when do I get them. it said - to down load hit url? I hit submit what's the diff? Your FAQ has nothing about above!!

I does NOW. :-)) ..This can only be the fault of the interent being real slow at that particular moment..If, after an hour, nothing has happened, PLEASE email us.. As a last resort, we can phone you with the URLs..

Question: Downloading a large number of folders takes so much time. Is there an easier way?

Tim Noyce wrote:
I have found a work-around for the folder-at-a-time download, which may be of some use to the more computer savvy users out there.
First, I'd like to say that I have no personal affiliation with this project, or its author. Along with the standard disclaimer, which is that I cannot be held responsible for any possible issue that installing this software could potentially cause. That out of the way, I have been using a file download utility called GetRight (From Headlight Software) for several years, which allows the use of built-in browser to open a web page. They have a free version - I don't remember off hand if it includes the browser option - which is supported by advertisements - but otherwise does not contain any malware/spyware - never has. A license which removes the advertisements, is around $25.00 last I checked. This entitles the user to lifetime updates, so is very reasonable in my opinion.

The utility has been extremely stable, and continues to be enhanced by the original author. There are several other utilities similar to this - the reason I like this one, is that I have had excellent luck with it - especially when I was using a dial-up connection. The utility will automatically re-establish, and restart interrupted downloads - which when pulling down larger files using a modem, is extremely useful. Anyway, back to the issue at hand:I open the browser, and enter the URL in question: I see the list of available folders.
I then select all of the folders I want, use the Download Advanced option in GetRight to specify that I want to re-create the directory structure, and place the files into a specific starting folder.Assuming I have told the application to download the files to folder
C:\Downloads\Plane Models,

I don't know how much use this is to the average user, but in my opinion, beats the other option, which is to manually navigate through
the directory structure, and downloading each folder as a separate task.

Q#2: I have Acrobat 5.1 but when I try to download I get "Plug in did not initialize properly".

Right click on the URL and choose 'save target as' and save it wherever you choose. Then double click on the icon to open or choose 'print'... If this is confusing,, simply re-install the latest version of Acrobat Reader and it'll do the plug-ins...

If you have a firewall it may not be configured properly to allow downloads or third party cookies. Try turning it off and see if it downloads.

It seems that with Acrobat Reader 5, magic key links can have a blank screen for as long as a few minutes. This seems like you're looking for a web site that can't be found. The bottom line is when using a magic key if the screen is blank ..just wait.

 You may need to change a setting in your Adobe Acrobat Reader.
It is the web browser integration option in the general preferences. It needs to be off, or unchecked.
Also, are you using Adobe 5.0? Once you have changed that setting, try downloading again.
When you go to download the file, you should get a box that pops up giving you the choice to open the file or to save the file to disk. Chose save the file to disk... this will save it to your hard drive.

Here's a unique "round-about way"

"When I try to open I get the famous "problem with opening" statement.
I get around this by printing the monitor screen instead. I then scan the print and put in my paper plane file.
No problem opening! I have to do all my plane downloads this way. "
Shutting down and Re-Booting your computer... OFTEN this solves a lot of problems

I assume that Acrobat Reader is coming up, either as a plug-in within your browser window or in a separate window, when you click the link to the model. If your system brings up Acrobat Reader as a plug-in in the browser window, go to the file menu and select 'Save As...' and you'll be given the opportunity to save a copy of the file on your machine. You can then open the file with Acrobat Reader at your convenience and view or print it at any time. If your system brings up the AR in a separate window, then you can't save it from the AR window. (Acrobat Reader doesn't write.) You need to go back to the browser window and follow the link in such a way as to bypass the browser's attempt to automatically associate the file with Acrobat Reader, i.e. get the browser to ask you what do with the file, instead of automatically assuming it should be opened with Acrobat Reader. How this is done varies a little bit with the operating system and browser.

On Windows machines, you can either;
Hold down the shift key while clicking on the link. The shift key modifies the meaning of the 'click'
from 'open this link in a browser window' which is the normal meaning of clicking, to 'save a copy of
whatever this link points to'. Plain 'click' means browse, 'shift-click' means 'save as...'

OR,
Click on the link with the right mouse button. This pops up a little menu called the contextual menu. The exact entries in the
menu depend on just what you clicked on (it's called a contextual menu because it varies with the context the right mouse button
is used in.) One of the choices is 'Save Link as...' That's the one you want. Don't pick 'Copy Link Location', that doesn't copy
the PDF file, it copies the Internet location of the file (useful if you want to tell a friend where
you found it on the Internet, but not what you want.)

**MORE particulars on this topic below.**

I can't seem to get my downloads (using Adobe7.0 Reader plus updates) to come out the right scale. So far I have only been able to get 90% size; for example, an item that should come
out at 5 cm in 1/33 or 1/32 scale actually measures 4.5cm on theprintout. I've disabled the "shrink to fit" command (I think successfully) and changed the margin settings but still get the same result. I do know the difference between the US standard 8-1/2" x 11" and the EU standard A4 paper. The items I've downloaded appear to be designed for the US standard.

CLick on this, please.
http://www.kartonbau.de/wbb2/thread.php?threadid=10650

Change PDFs files to JPG with this FREE program:
For those who are not using a drawing program, that can open pdf's - there is a free version of OmniFormat, which can convert pdf to jpg or tiff. The free version will display a sponsor page in your web browser each time you launch the software. If you can live with that it is an OK program.
http://www.omniformat.com/download.html.

Acrobat Reader 5 is a FREE download at: http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep.html
IGNORE the little plea to spend $275 for the program.. That's for the folk who create PDFs...
This is their Tech help page: http://www.adobe.com/support/techdocs/31066.htm

Check the default setting first...
Just thought I would let you know that I finally have stomped, trampled and crushed AOL into submission, and
although the process is slow, can now download your models. The secret turned out to be that I had to re-load
AOL 4.0 for each download.
Takes time, but at least it works (unless, of course, AOL decides to drop me in the middle of a download for "lack of activity").  Isn't technology grand!?.
NOTE: Could be that an earlier version of Acrobat was the default setting.

I seem to be having trouble getting Acrobat 5
A shot in the dark.. Assuming you have a conflict in your windows registry. If you are running Windows 98,
exit to DOS and type SCANREG/FIX this will scan the registry and "fix" any problems.

Can't seem to 'save to' the downloaded model...
For WIN users of IE, ..Right click on a hot link and you can select "Save Target As".
I use it whenever the hot link points directly to a file. Another secret is that you can start two downloads at the same time. It slows the transfer rate a bit, but I usually go do something else while I'm downloading anyway. You may need to change a setting in your Adobe Acrobat Reader. It is the web browser integration option in the general preferences. It needs to be off, or unchecked. Also, are you using Adobe 4.0? Once you have changed that setting, try downloading again. When you go to download the file, you should get a box that pops up giving you
the choice to open the file or to save the file to disk. Chose 'save the file to disk'... this will save it to your hard drive. Read on...

Barry writes,
First step is to create a directory on your hard drive to store the models once they are saved....call the directory by any
name you choose ( for example "models")....Then go to File on your screen and hit 'save as'....(You can use the
name of the file that you downloaded or give it your own name) and send it to the location you created on your hard
drive ("models")...The file you downloaded should start to get saved on your drive....Some files take longer than others to be saved..

Saul writes,
I use Netscape and when I click on a PDF file I get a menu that gives me the option of opening the file or
saving it to disk. Select save to disk and it will save it to a folder called My Download Files.

Regarding HOTMAIL, Jim writes,
Anyone else try to "Save Target As" (from the menu that shows up with a right click - IE on a PC) rather than just loading the file into the Acrobat plug-in?
When I do that I get a load message, not for the PDF but for "linkrd.html" which I believe is due to
Hotmail's limitations.
I get the same type of problem trying to save all those beautiful JPG's (like the SPAD series); the only way
I can download them is to open them into a window & then save the resulting BMP resulting is a collection of HUGE files
rather than the original JPGs. When I try to download directly, I instead download "getmesg.html".
The Hotmail "support" hasn't been too helpful other than to say, "Yup. That's a problem alright..."
Oh well - you get what you don't pay for.

I am using AOL and my screen stays blank for approximately 5
minutes before anything from the download comes on.
The only way I know I am downloading the aircraft is by using a small utility (called DU-Meter) that shows a download is occurring & how fast. I had the same trouble with the Sky Train, but once DU ran & saw it was downloading I just left everything alone and I finally received all 7 pages. Don't know if this is any help or not, but it is a possibility others are having a slow download problem too & their screen remains blank. Bill

Timing can be everything.
.. although the majority of people don't have problems, if you have a slow connection and/or if there is a lot of traffic on the Internet, you might not be able to get a complete download on your first try. You will want to try to download at a different time. For example, if you are having problems downloading during the day, try to download during the night and vise versa.

Watch that disconnect.
.. if you are using AOL or CompuServe to connect to the Internet, many of these services have an automatic disconnect if they do not "see" you doing anything. If you are downloading a large model from FG, go back to the main menu on AOL or CompuServe every 8 or 10 minutes and do a manual check on your email account.

Where did it go?
... many times your Internet browser will "hide" the download files from you. Try to do a search of your hard drive and look for files ending with "PDF". On a Windows computer you might ask it to search for "*.PDF" while on a Macintosh you might just ask it to look for files that end with "PDF".

Downloading problem solved:
Hi Group, Has anyone had trouble downloading onto a Mac G3? I bought four and they won't download with
Netscape Communicator 4.75 or IE 4.5. Help! --Bruce

Answer;
I had similar problems and this is what worked for me.: If you open Acrobat and go to File, Preferences, General from
the menu, you will get a dialog box of general Acrobat preferences. There is a box in the lower right called "Web
Browser Integration". Make sure this box is UN-Checked. This way the files will not attempt to load into the
browser but go directly to your hard drive. Sometime with Internet pauses and different system configurations the
Acrobat/Browser interaction does not behave. Please let me know if this doesn't solve the problem. Best regards, Fred

Don: I still get an error message which says "This program has performed an illegal operation and will be shut down. If the problem
persists contact the program vendor."

Ans: It's a Windows problem ... sez our guru, Kelly "Sounds like a DLL error and/or Arcobat conflict"Re-install Acrobat and that might do it.

Still having download problems?? Try this:
When was the last time you cleaned out your Internet Temporary file folder?
Seems to me when Downloading starts to get weird on my pc (Windows) I go into Internet Explorer, Tools, Internet Options, and use the delete files button.
I usually go all out, clear history, and cookies too. but that might be too extreme for some.

I use an EPSON Stylus 600 and over come the enlargement/reduction problem of a .PDF file by using a user defined paper size in the printer setup/paper, but still load the printer with the largest paper size I can. Then check the print to fit or size box, and deselect the Print as image box. It may help to have the latest printer driver available for your printer too. It works for Fiddlers green aircraft when doing the WASM.
Enlargements are limited in size though. Mike Doney

How do I print PDF files?
Those who have Windows 98 can use the "Print Screen" button to capture an Abode Acrobat PDF file as a bitmap.
Then you can import the clipboard image to your favorite graphic program.  Mac users can also make screenshots...
**(I believe you hold the Command+Shift + 3 keys)**
If you magnify the Adobe Acrobat file, you can get an enlarged image which you can further manipulate. However, pay
attention to your dpi settings or the scale may be thrown off. You may also have to "cut and paste" several images if the
magnified image is too large to be shown entirely on one screen.

I like the concept of being able to print a card model myself. I can choose my favorite paper with thickness of my
choice for different parts. It also encourages experiments as I always can print out the parts again when I make an serious mistake.
Hopefully more models will be available for downloading or distributed on CD:s in the future.

What about Printer settings?
I had a recurring problem with your planes. I print all models onto A4.
Nothing ever seemed to fit right. Then I discovered that I had 'fit to page' ticked
in the print dialog box of Adobe Acrobat. It's absolutely amazing the difference it
makes. It is like a whole new hobby. Everything fits!!!!!
Within Adobe Acrobat, you probably normally have the "Print as Image" and "Fit to Page" options
selected -- when you UNCHECK the "Print as Image" option and leave the "Fit to Page" option
CHECKED, the files print just fine. --Joe Cangero

I love the TINY planes and want to print them from my FG CD. and I read your suggestions above
but STILL have trouble figuring out how to reduce the printout..I have an HP 693c Printer.
I had an HP 693C for a while. If you go the Printers folder, right click on the HP icon and select Properties, you should get a dialogue box. One of the tabs should say Paper. Select Size (or if there is a button labeled Custom choose that) Custom, then enter the calculated size of the new page (i.e. 50% reduction, enter a paper size of 4.25 x 5.5). Then be sure Fit to Page is selected in Acrobat Reader.

One note
I had limits as to how small a page I could do (somewhere around a 50% reduction).
The Crosby CR-3 Racer should be reduced to 38% for WSAM
scale and my printer wouldn't allow me to go that small. Tim

Additionally
Try selecting 'Fit to page' in Acrobat Reader's Print dialogue box, and then lie about the paper size! The choices of size depends on the printer driver, but Hewlett-Packard drivers usually have a fairly comprehensive choice. You obviously won't have exact control over the scaling if you do it this way, but it may do what you want. I hope this helps. Rob

I have been printing your models on a HP Color Laserjet 4500N and the images
are spectacular. I have been using the paper that you sent me. I have a
problem with the toner flaking off of the sheet much to my annoyance.
This is easy. The printer heat bar is not up to the thickness of the cardstock. Wonder if you put the paper
under a heat lamp for a minute to PRE heat it...hmmmm ....I DO know that if you use lighter paper, you'll find joy.

Answer:
IF you figure that N scale is 1:60 and your scale is 1:120 simply divide 60/120= 50% .
So print any N scale model at 50% and you're O.K.

Is there any way to force an Adobe PDF file to print at a size other than what is locked into file. Is there
maybe a way to save a PDF as a different type file that I could open in Paint Shop Pro?
The "fit to page" option is a part of Acrobat Reader; your printer driver shouldn't matter. Under Reader 5.0, though,
the option is labeled "Shrink oversized pages to paper size." After you click "print" you'll find it in the "Copies and
adjustments" area of the print dialog, just above the preview image.

In earlier versions "fit to page" is also in the print dialog. As for other methods, if the .PDF has copying of graphics enabled,
set your zoom to 300 or 400%, pick the graphics selection tool, hit <CTRL><A> to select all, <CTRL><C> to copy, switch over to PSP and hit <CTRL><V> to paste the image in as a bitmap. If copying is disabled, you'll need to do a few screen captures (<ALT><Print Screen>) of sections of the zoomed .PDF and splice them together again in PSP.
(thanks to M.Hungerford)

How to Copy: Simply select, then do it to it. For instance, select the text you wish to copy (press-and-drag over it), then from the Edit menu choose "Copy." The text will remain in your document and a copy will be placed on the Clipboard.

OK, it's on the Clipboard. Now what? Well, the Clipboard holds objects for pasting. You can take text or a graphic out of one place and paste it into your document somewhere else, just as if you had a little glue pot.

How to Paste: From the Edit menu choose "Paste." If you are working with text, whatever was on the Clipboard will be inserted in your document heginning at theflashing insertion point. If you have a range of text selected, the pasted item will replace what was selected. Spreadsheet data, graphics, etc., all can be pasted in as well. In some programs, especially graphic programs, the pasted object will just land in the middle of the page.

As long as something is on the Clipboard, you can paste it in a million times in many different applications.

Designing Software:

I use CorelDraw, Paint Shop Pro, and my all-time favourite program, Rhinoceros. Check out www.rhino3d.com where you can get a demo. It is relatively expensive, but if anyone thinks 3D software is difficult to use, try Rhino! It is quite brilliant!

CorelDraw is excellent too, but you don't need the latest version, ver 8 or 9 are more than adequate for this sort of work, ver 9 will read and generate pdf files directly and is worth the extra money for that facility alone. And don't listen to anyone saying CorelDraw it is a bit cranky, it might have been 10 years ago but it is perfectly OK now! You could say that about any 10-year old software compared with todays PC tools. Sorry, PC and Mac tools; sheesh, if I upset those Mac users, we'll never hear the end of it.....

Bottom line, it doesn't really matter what software you use provided it does what you want it to do. Look out on computer magazine cover disks if you are short of cash. I have seen Paint Shop Pro 5, Canvas 6 and TrueSpace 3 in the last couple of months, all fully working and unlimited, just for the price of the magazine. And a good school textbook on engineering drawing, especially sheet metal design, will be more use than any overblown graphics package! Tim Perry (3/03)